Philadelphia!
Let me preface all this with something I noticed when I was teaching in China. Teachers at my company were in Beijing on one of three contracts: 3 month, 6 month, 1 year. As the first days stretched into the first weeks, it became apparent that the amount of time you planned to spend in China determined how you spent your free time. If you were there for only three months you inevitably tore up the town, rooting through every crack and crevice to soak up every experience as quickly as you could. If you were there for six months you tended to take it a little more slowly, but your weekends often involved a cultural to-do list. If you had a one-year contract (with the possibility of renewal in the back of your mind), you haunted the expat bars, slept until 2 the next afternoon, and kept talking about how much you wanted to see Thing X and Thing Y.
I have often thought about this "theory of leisure productivity" since moving to New York. For the first time in our time as "us", we aren't on borrowed time. Beijing was an extended vacation, Canada was a holding place, and New York? New York has no definite end in sight. Maybe this explains why we hit the ground running in Toronto, and have barely left the 5 boroughs in the past year and a half. Sure, there has been school... but there hasn't been that urgency to get out and see. Interesting.
With all this in mind, we packed up and went to Philly this weekend. What a wonderful place! I can't believe we didn't come here sooner. I won't do a laundry list of the things we did and saw (except to mention the amazing and disturbing Mutter Museum; a to-die-for salad at Farmacia involving pomegranate; pistachio dust and the creamiest feta known to man; Retrospect, and the incredible Eastern State Penitentiary) It was such a breath of fresh air, and an amusing one at that. "Oh, it's so peaceful here! It seems so charming and manageable - look, the buildings don't go higher than three stories!" Who'd have thought I'd ever think of a city of 1.4 million as a breath of sweet, country air? Adaptability is an amazing thing.
We alternated between semi-aimless wandering and structured sightseeing. It was nice to pause in the graveyard of an old church when the sun was hitting it just so... to see gravestones worn almost smooth by centuries of wind and rain... to admire the shadows on a brick wall...